Excessive crossbreeding of roses has led to hybrids losing their scent. Only specific species are for fragrances – technologies and chemical processes
Rose extraction methods
Rose extraction occurs from rose petals through several processes. Steam distillation, solvent extraction, or supercritical carbon dioxide extraction. Extracting rose as an essential oil requires a lot of plant material: rose petals, steamed or water distilled. The result is expensive, but it is the purest form of oil available. In addition, the essential oil will vary in its aroma depending upon which species of rose it is extracted from.
Steam distillation is the most widely used technology when compared with the other two, and it results in absolute. Solvent extraction technology doesn’t require heat during the process. It is produced from rose concrete – the solid, waxy residue created from immersing rose petals in solvent – at two temperatures, respectively under twenty-five and twenty degrees; using two concentrations (96%, 80%) of ethanol as solvent. In addition, the chemical composition of the absolute mainly consists of phenylethyl alcohol, citronellol, geraniol, nerol, 1-nonadecene, methyl eugenol, eugenol, nonadecane and benzyl alcohol.
The use of flowers and roses in perfumery
For centuries, rose has been the most important crop in the floriculture industry. The genus Rosa includes 200 different species and more than 18,000 cultivars rely their economic value in the use of the petals as a source of natural fragrances and flavorings. In addition, rose is prevalent all across the world in all shapes and sizes and in a variety of colors and smells. However, the excessive crossbreeding of roses has led to hybrid roses losing their scent. For this reason, only certain species of roses make it into the fragrances.
Rose petals represent a viable system in the application of modern genomics technologies in the search for novel genes involved in fragrance production. Among the most scented species collected by perfumers are Rosa damascene, present in Turkey and Bulgaria, and Rosa Centifolia. Rose de Mai or painter’s rose, also known as the hundred-leafed rose; grown around Grasse in the south of France and generally considered to produce the highest quality scent in the world
VARIATIONS OF ROSE IN PERFUMERY:
There are several variations of rose that are commonly used in perfumery, including :
Rosa damascena: The Iranian Rose, or Rosa damascena, is a vision of elegance and beauty. In its most natural form, it presents a simple, yet captivating structure: a bulky ovary, the “rose hip,” crowned with five sepals alternating with five delicate petals. This classic arrangement is the hallmark of all true roses.21188
Rose de Mai: Also known as May Rose, this is a highly prized variety of rose that is harvested in Grasse, France. It has a rich, complex scent with notes of honey, fruit, and spice.
Damask Rose: This is another highly valued variety of rose that is known for its intense, spicy aroma. It is grown in Bulgaria, Turkey, and Iran, among other places.
Tea Rose: This type of rose has a lighter, fresher scent than other varieties, with notes of green tea and herbs.
Bourbon Rose: This is a type of rose that is known for its sweet, fruity scent with notes of apricot and raspberry. It is named after the island of Bourbon (now called Reunion), where it was first cultivated. We chose this rose for the distinct accord in our Phlur Ameline fragrance.
Turkish Rose: This is a type of rose that is grown in Turkey and has a spicy, fruity scent with notes of clove and cinnamon.
Bulgarian Rose: This type of rose is known for its rich, full-bodied scent with notes of honey and fruit. It is one of the most commonly used rose varieties in perfumery.
Moroccan Rose: Moroccan Rose is known for its intense, exotic scent with notes of citrus and spice. It is often used in high-end fragrances and luxury beauty products.
Here are some classic perfumes featuring rose in their titles:
Eau de Cologne Rose by Guerlain (1864):
This iconic fragrance, launched in 1864, is considered one of the first modern Eau de Colognes. It features a light and refreshing blend of rose, citrus, and herbal notes.
Rose L'Original by Edmond Roudnitska (1922):
This masterpiece by perfumer Edmond Roudnitska is a celebration of the Bulgarian Rose. Its fragrance is a rich and opulent blend of rose, jasmine, and woods.
Vol de Nuit by Guerlain (1933):
This oriental perfume was created by Jacques Guerlain and was inspired by the novel of the same name by Annemarie Schwarzenbach. It features a complex blend of rose, jasmine, vanilla, and spices.
Miss Dior by Christian Dior (1947):
This iconic fragrance is a symbol of post-war elegance. It features a floral bouquet of rose, jasmine, and iris, with a base of chypre notes.
Tea Rose by Perfume d'Empire (1958):
This fragrance is a tribute to the classic Tea Rose. Its fragrance is a light and airy blend of rose, tea, and citrus notes.
These are just a few examples of old perfumes that feature rose in their titles. With their timeless scents, these fragrances continue to captivate wearers today.
New Scents Blooming with the Beauty of Roses:
The rose remains a timeless fragrance icon, inspiring innovative creations in the world of perfumery. Here are some recent releases captivating hearts with their unique takes on the beloved floral note:
Tom Ford Rose Prick (2020): This bold fragrance reimagines the rose with a touch of edginess. It features a blend of Turkish rose, patchouli, and black pepper, creating a captivatingly dark and spicy rose scent.
Byredo Rose of the Valley (2023): This delicate fragrance combines the sweetness of rose with the fresh, green notes of lily of the valley. The result is a light and airy scent perfect for springtime.
Gucci Mémoire d'une Fleur (2022): This romantic fragrance is inspired by the Roman garden of the brand's founder, Guccio Gucci. It features a blend of rose, jasmine, and chamomile, creating a nostalgic and feminine scent.
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540 Extrait de Parfum (2017): This luxurious fragrance features a unique take on the rose, blending it with saffron, jasmine, and ambergris. The result is a warm and sensual scent with an undeniable presence.
Dior Miss Dior Rose N'Roses (2022): This playful fragrance celebrates the joy of roses. It features a blend of Grasse Rose, Centifolia Rose, and Damask Rose, creating a fresh and vibrant scent with a touch of sweetness.
These are just a few examples of the many new perfumes embracing the timeless allure of the rose. With their creative interpretations and captivating scents, these fragrances offer a modern twist on a classic floral note.
This article was researched and written by Galbanum Oil Fragrance
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